Polishing a Concrete Floor

When concrete floors are unpolished they are rough and sandy and dust makes it is impossible to make them look clean. Polishing the rough concrete will give it a smooth finish. In addition, polished concrete is easier to maintain than rough.

Instructions

  1. Seal the cracks with epoxy putty. Use a small spatula to apply caulk all joints and cracks. Make the edges of the filled cracks the same level as the rest of the floor. Allow the putty to dry as indicated in the manufacturer’s instructions that are on the package of putty.
  2. Put dust mask over your mouth and nose before you start polishing the concrete.
  3. Place the diamond metal and grain number 40 pad on the polishing machine. Starting from the far corner of the room and slowly work your way in 6 feet by 6 feet (1.8 to 1.8 m) at a time to polish the floor. Repeat with a number 80 grain polishing pad and then the number 150 grain on the polishing machine. Use a hand sander to polish the edges with each type of grain.
  4. Fill a pump sprayer with a product to harden concrete. Begin on one side of the floor and apply a fine mist of the product over the entire surface. Let the floor dry as directed by the label on the hardener.
  5. Place a resin and diamond 200 grain polishing pad on the machine. Starting from the far corner of the room, work slowly in 6 feet by 6 feet (1.8 to 1.8 m) at a time to polish the floor. Repeat with the resin and diamond polishing pad number 400, then go to the polishing pad number 800 then finally, use the number 3,000 grain pad. Use a hand polishing machine to polish the edges with each type of grain.

Tips & Warnings

  • Practice with the polishing machine in an inconspicuous place before using it in larger areas.
  • Practice using the polishing machine in places away from walls and baseboards until you feel you can handle it well. The rotation of the machine makes it move forward and forces control so it requires practice.
fences-7

How To Build a DIY Wooden Fence

A picket fence not only prevents people and animals from entering your yard, it also gives your property a finished and attractive aspect. Hardware stores and home improvement stores sell fence panels that simplify the task of building your own wooden fence. Try planting roses or a vine to soften the look of the fence.

Instructions

  1. Dig the first hole for the pole with a hand shovel if you need less than a dozen holes and are excavating relatively soft soil. For harder soil or more than a dozen holes, consider renting an excavator gasoline. Start by digging a whole 10 ” (25.4 cm) in diameter with straight sides using a shovel. When you’ve gone as deep as the shovel allows, use an excavator for posts up to 32” (81 cm).
  2. Place a pole at the first hole and fill it in with 8 ” (20.3 cm) of soil. Make sure the post is plumb and then pack the soil with a tamping bar. Add 8 ” (20.3 cm) more of soil and repeat the process of leveling and tamping until the hole is full.
  3. Tie a 5” (12.7 cm) string from the floor to the side of the post. Bring the rope to the first corner of the fence and drive in a stake there. Wrap the rope around the stake to mark the first side of the fence. Measure the length from the first post of the fence panel and mark this point.
  4. Dig a second hole for the pole at the point marked. Place the second post in the same way as the first.
  5. Use wood shims to prop the fence panel 2”-5” (5-12 cm) above the ground, and uses two ½” (1.2 cm) screws to attach the panel to the studs. Continue to place poles and fixing the panels until you’ve completed your fence.
windows-and-doors-7

Protecting Your Home With Burglar-Proof Windows

Windows give character and light to your home, but can also be your greatest safety risk. Burglars and intruders look through your windows to determine if you’ll be their next target, and often use those windows as a point of entry to your home. Making your windows burglar-proof can be achieved either by ensuring the current windows or replacing your existing windows with an updated product.

Securing existing windows

  1. Ensure the window’s sashes by inserting a wrench through the window or replacing your current one with a lockable handle.
  2. Install screws into the top rails of the sliding windows. The window should only pass the screw as it moves, so there is no space for the window to wobble and remove it from the rails. You can also install a key lock for added security.
  3. Remove the window’s operating handle casement. For added security, install a lock on the rail of the piece.
  4. If they don’t have latches already, install key slide latches into the basement windows.

Replace existing windows

  1. Replace the current windows with laminated glass windows. Intruders have difficulty breaking the laminated glass due to the layer of security or vinyl plastic that is sandwiched between the glass panes.
  2. Consider using tempered glass to replace your windows. Tempered glass is 5 times stronger than normal glass, making it difficult for thieves to break it.
  3. Use glass wiring in the basement or less visible windows. The cables are visible, so it is a less ideal choice for intruders.
  4. Install railings affixed with mortar to the foundation of your home for greater security in high-crime areas.

Tips & Warnings

  • Make sure to leave at least one window in each bedroom, on the first and second floor, accessible as an emergency exit.
Basement-Flooring-Ideas-With-Wall-Design

How Waterproof Interior Basement Walls

Keeping your basement dry can be especially challenging, particularly with heavy rainfall or with the arrival of spring. Applying a waterproof sealant to the inside of the basement walls can alleviate many problems related to moisture. Applying this sealant is as simple as using a paint roller, however, it takes a lot of work to prepare the walls for sealing. With the right tools, you can waterproof your basement walls in a weekend.

Instructions

  1. Remove all loose paint, concrete, dust and other similar elements from the walls with a metal bristle brush. Brush in deep areas surrounding any breakage to prepare for hydraulic cement.
  2. Clean the walls with a concrete degreaser cleaner. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for mixing the cleaner. Apply with a sprayer to accelerate the process. Brush the walls with the swab to remove fat deposits and other impurities. Rinse the wall and let it dry as directed by the cleaner.
  3. With a chisel, remove chunks of concrete that are broken or loosen holes that are in the walls. Use chisel to trim the edges to allow the hydraulic cement to adhere to the walls.
  4. Following the instructions, mix small amounts of hydraulic cement. Place the cement in the cracks and holes and be sure to seal completely. Smooth the surface of the concrete with a trowel until it is flush with the surface of the walls. Let the cement dry as instructed.
  5. Apply a paint primer with a thick bristled roller, if necessary, making sure you get to the corners of the walls and the area around the repair. Let it dry and if needed apply a second coat.
  6. Waterproof inner walls by applying the sealant with a roller. Make sure the repaired areas are properly sealed. The same should happen with the edges and corners. Let the sealer dry according to instructions. Apply a second coat if necessary.

Tips & Warnings

  • Before waterproofing the inside walls of your basement, make sure that humidity is an external problem. Tape a piece of plastic with a damp spot on the wall. The next day inspect it to see if moisture is on the side facing the wall, indicating a problem of external moisture, or the area exposed to air, indicating a problem of interior moisture.
  • Use protective goggles when brushing, cleaning and using the chisel on the wall for protection. Make sure the area is well ventilated before applying the sealant.
bathroom remodel

How to Remodel a Small Bathroom

A small bathroom remodel bathroom requires a lot of planning to make sure your budget is spent wisely. When it comes to small spaces, choosing the appropriate accessories can affect the appearance and the sense of space more than anything else.

Instructions

  1. Reduce the scale of the accessories and furniture in the bathroom. The bigger they are, the smaller the bathroom appears. This is especially true in crowded corners which could include the sink and counter containing too many objects or laundry baskets and other large containers. Only by replacing these elements with smaller ones will you get enough space to add other items or to expand the shower or tub space.
  2. Remove the tub and settle for a shower. This will significantly increase the space available and allow you to add additional furniture for storage. A shower curtain will make the space look even bigger because you can leave a little open to show the space behind it. If you prefer sliding doors, you can use glass ones.
  3. Consider changing your toilet and sink to smaller and flatter ones. The new models are generally designed for apartments, so they can fit in shallower areas and make the most of every available inch.
  4. Add a mirror. If you can’t change the mirror over the sink, add lights on top of it to give the impression of more reflection or place a second mirror on the opposite wall. If there is additional room to place candles to help intensify the light in your bathroom.
  5. Paint or replace the bathroom tiles with light colors. If the white or blue seem too simple, consider adding touches of contrasting color by adding a mosaic or paint a border to separate the wall from the ceiling. If you want to add other decorative touches, use plants (that add a touch of color and give a sense of open space) and candles (which multiply the light).

Tips & Warnings

  • If you have no idea how to transform your bathroom, you can hire a designer to help you during the planning. Many designers agree to draw up plans for a small fee if you cannot afford to pay for the whole process.
drywall-11

Creating Exterior Plaster Walls

Plaster or stucco, as it is called when used on exterior surfaces, is an ancient building material. Plaster creates different textures on a hard surface and finishes can be applied by adding coloring or painting. Although it is called plaster, or stucco, it is a mixture of cement, sand, and water. Originally, the bonding agent was lime, not cement, and is used frequently in mixtures today. Stucco was used in the buildings of ancient peoples in the southwestern United States, and is still used in this region.

Instructions

  1. Build the basis of a wall by using poured concrete, concrete block or wood paneling. Make the base for concrete wider than the width of the wall to give an area of protection plaster or stucco finish blocks. Make a wood wall with concrete posts and line them with plywood or chipboard; place the coating on either side of the fence.
  2. Adhere a waterproof protectant with a staple gun on wooden wall cover and adjusts the expanded metal wall with galvanized nails and a hammer. Apply plaster directly on the masonry wall. Install a wire mesh at the bottom of the wooden wall to allow moisture to drain and get behind the stucco. Leave a space at the foot of the wall so the stucco surface is not in contact with the ground.
  3. Apply the stucco traditionally in three layers or the newest “single layer” actually uses two layers. Spread the first layer, about 3/8 inch (0.95 cm) thick with a flat rectangular bricklayer. Let it settle and scratch horizontal lines with the serrated edge of the blade of the trowel, broom or rake. Skip this step in the process of a single layer. Let the bond coat cure at least 24 hours, keep it moist during healing.
  4. Place the second layer, also approximately 3/8 inch (0.95 cm) thick layer of adhesive, this is the first, or base coat in two steps. Smooth it by rotating a ruler along the surface from top to bottom. Removes excess scraped material from the bottom of the wall or fence. Cure this layer for 24 hours, keeping it moist during the process.
  5. Finish the wall or fence with a 1/8 inches (0.35 cm) layer of stucco plaster using a spoon rectangular or pointed mason. Spread the material gently, and then add any texture; stucco fences and boundary walls are finished naturally in its textures, without being absolutely smooth. Let the finishing coat dry and paint if the mixture is not colored.
Bathroom

An Alternative to Replacing Bathroom Tiles

Painting bathroom tiles is a great alternative to spending a lot of money changing them. Discolored or ugly tiles in your shower or a counter can be fixed using epoxy, latex or paint to oil. If you are thinking of painting your tile, determine the wear and humidity it would encounter before choosing paint. Spray paints, enamels and epoxies are unsuitable for tiles because they flake easily. However, acrylic paint when applied to clean and primed walls works well for a professional finish. In addition to paint, you only need a few more things to do a quick makeover in the bathroom.

Instructions

  1. Place a tarp down to gather dust that may be full when sanding.
  2. Clean the tile. Use an abrasive sponge and wash and remove all traces of soap cleaner. This will help get rid of shine. Continue to clean any dirty cracks with a nail brush and bleach. Rinse the wall with warm water to remove the cleaner and let it dry.
  3. Remove any remaining gloss from the tiles with an orbital sander. This step is the most important and defines the quality and duration of your work. If there is any gloss left on the tile paint could peel off in as little as a week.
  4. Clean dust from the tile and apply primer. Make sure it is oil based and highly adherent. These characteristics help to block stains and will provide a more adhesiveness to the primer. Apply two coats of primer and allow to drying time between them.
  5. Sand the layer lightly to remove surface defects. Clean the dust with a damp cloth.
  6. Paint the tile with an oil based paint using a brush. Apply two or three thin coats of paint to the tiles allowing drying between each application. Allow two or three days for the last layer to dry completely.
  7. Finish the job by applying two coats of urethane using a natural bristle brush.
  8. Let the urethane dry according to manufacturer’s instructions. If you need to use the shower, it will be best to wait a day or two before letting the tile get wet.
Metal-roof-job-finished2-1

Types of Metal Roofs for Homes

Metal roofs are becoming the material of choice for many homeowners, replacing asphalt shingles. Metal roofs offer aesthetic and functional advantages over other materials, including options in design, durability, and versatility. These roofs are available in a number of different styles and materials, and can easily last for decades with little maintenance.

Materials

Steel is the most common material used on metal roofs. It is also one of the most affordable. Aluminum roofs are much more expensive, but may also be more durable in some applications. Copper is the most expensive metal roofing option, and is mainly chosen for its intense color and visual appeal. Tin roofs can be used in barns and sheds. This material is more durable, less expensive and used more often to create metal roofs.

Forms

Metal roofs can be used both in steep structures and low-slope roofs. Smooth or embossed panels are installed using a locking technique that creates a standing seam design. Some metal roofing tiles, shakes or tiles, can be used to mimic the look of wood or clay roofing. The metal can be fixed with wooden nails or in patterns to give an authentic look.

Benefits

While metal roofs usually offered many benefits to homeowners, each type of metal roofing material has its own advantages. Steel is one of the most durable types of roofs, and is resistant to dents caused by wind, hail and strong impact. Aluminum is highly resistant to oxidation and corrosion, and is often the best choice in coastal areas. Copper, tin and aluminum are usually left unfinished and require little maintenance to maintain their appearance.

Disadvantages

Each of these materials also has some disadvantages that must be considered. Steel can rust or corrode, and should not be used near salt water or very humid areas. Aluminum is a relatively soft metal and tends to dent easily. Copper interacts with atmospheric oxygen to form a greenish coating known as “patina”. While some buyers like this effect, others consider it a disadvantage. The steel must be repainted every few years to maintain its appearance.

Considerations

When choosing between different types of metal roofs, note the desired look and style of your home. The visual appeal is particularly important when the housing parts are visible from inside the house or from the outside. It also helps to consider the cost of housing compared with its useful life and maintenance requirements. Finally, note the local climate, including levels of wind, rain and snow.

weatherproofing-1

Types of Metal Roofs for Homes

Metal roofs are becoming the material of choice for many homeowners, replacing asphalt shingles. Metal roofs offer aesthetic and functional advantages over other materials, including options in design, durability, and versatility. These roofs are available in a number of different styles and materials, and can easily last for decades with little maintenance.

Materials

Steel is the most common material used on metal roofs. It is also one of the most affordable. Aluminum roofs are much more expensive, but may also be more durable in some applications. Copper is the most expensive metal roofing option, and is mainly chosen for its intense color and visual appeal. Tin roofs can be used in barns and sheds. This material is more durable, less expensive and used more often to create metal roofs.

Forms

Metal roofs can be used both in steep structures and low-slope roofs. Smooth or embossed panels are installed using a locking technique that creates a standing seam design. Some metal roofing tiles, shakes or tiles, can be used to mimic the look of wood or clay roofing. The metal can be fixed with wooden nails or in patterns to give an authentic look.

Benefits

While metal roofs usually offered many benefits to homeowners, each type of metal roofing material has its own advantages. Steel is one of the most durable types of roofs, and is resistant to dents caused by wind, hail and strong impact. Aluminum is highly resistant to oxidation and corrosion, and is often the best choice in coastal areas. Copper, tin and aluminum are usually left unfinished and require little maintenance to maintain their appearance.

Disadvantages

Each of these materials also has some disadvantages that must be considered. Steel can rust or corrode, and should not be used near salt water or very humid areas. Aluminum is a relatively soft metal and tends to dent easily. Copper interacts with atmospheric oxygen to form a greenish coating known as “patina”. While some buyers like this effect, others consider it a disadvantage. The steel must be repainted every few years to maintain its appearance.

Considerations

When choosing between different types of metal roofs, note the desired look and style of your home. The visual appeal is particularly important when the housing parts are visible from inside the house or from the outside. It also helps to consider the cost of housing compared with its useful life and maintenance requirements. Finally, note the local climate, including levels of wind, rain and snow.

living room interior

Stone Fireplaces Styles

Often a fireplace is the centerpiece of a living room, no matter the size, and can be made in any shape, size, style and material. In addition, a fireplace, especially those made ​​of stone, can be more than just a decorative part of the house; It can be the crucial part for a fire.

Fireplace finished in faux stone

This type of fireplace is very simple to install. Stone finishing is a composite material made ​​of cement, sand and colorants, and applied in construction on to an existing faux stone. People often have trouble recognizing actual stone versus faux stone. The stone finish is less expensive than real stone and weighs much less, which means it can be installed without the necessary foundations to install real stone. Also, it can be applied to both brick and metal chimneys. These materials are 50 to 60 percent less expensive than the materials needed for the installation of real stone.

Cultured stone

Cultured stone is light, a manmade product and used mainly for decorative purposes. Made of concrete and different pigments it’s usually formed into molds shaped like natural rock. The lightweight nature of the material provides less stress to the structure of the foundation and can be installed without a brick base to support it. But unlike the stone finish, it is more expensive and not always universal in color. If cultured stone needs to be cut for installation, the inside will probably have the color of gray cement.

Natural stone

Natural stone fireplaces are often built using a method of masonry. The stone is often largely uncut from its original state in the quarry; the only difference is that the stones are cut into manageable sizes. Natural stone fireplaces are more durable than their counterparts of bricks which splinter, flake and crack over time. Types of natural stone used for the fireplaces include common stone, river stone and flagstone.

Dry stacked stone

The method of using stacked stones for fireplaces is a design that requires greater skill in construction. Much depends on the weight of the stones to maintain the shape of the fireplace without using cement in visible areas. Cement is commonly used to reinforce and seal the crucial areas of the structure of a fireplace but is well hidden unless you look closely.